Ohio residentail code roof ?

Does anyone know what is the current Ohio residential code is for roof decking? I was told that the spring of 2008 it changed. I am trying to find out
the decking thickness for 24oc. This is for a re-roof of a shed style roof of a garage with 2x6 rafters not trusses.

If its a detached building would it even fall within the codes??

The State of Ohio has adopted the IRC as its “code” reference. But any “code” would be a local thing and subject to the whim of the local AHJ. Ask him…or her (the AHJ).

The 2008 thing may hve been the rejection of the 2008 NEC because the new “code” “required” the use of AFCI, which was lobbied against by electricians and builders as being too expensive and the ACFI were too sensitive. The Governor then un-adopted the 2008 code and reverted to the 2005 edition.

Thanks for the response so what you are saying to a layman is that 7/16" across a 24oc
is OK and the Building inspector should accept this?

Phil your best bet is call your local building department and ask what they require…jim

James that is the reason I am asking this question. I had some other builder come out to do other work when I was walking the roof it was extremely spongy he stated it was not up to code. when I contacted the building inspector she passed it, I feel it is not right.
When I asked her what they follow she stated Ohio Residential Code.
She also approved other things such as a header for a doorway that is definitely
not to code. That is why I am asking if someone has Ohio residential code rules so I can set my mind at ease.

Phil…I’m sorry you are having these problems…I am not a code inspector but a home inspector…i can not tell you what to do but i can tell you if i was in the garage or attic and looked up and saw 7/16 on 24"centers I would not put my 240#'s up there…we live in ohio and there is plenty of snow load here… in my opinion that roof at best is going to sag…at worst is anybody’s guess…not sure what else i can tell you but call me if you think i can help you…jim

Ohio has no specific roofing code, per se. One builder says it’s OK…the next says “it’s not up to code”. Whose code is he referring to?

If the AHJ looked at the installation and said it is OK–then it is OK.

However, if you, as a home inspector, care to point out to a client that it might be a weak structure, you are free to do so. It is your opinion and that is what you were hired to do–give your opinion.

The client weighs all that has been learned–such as:

your opinion that it is weak,

builder A says it is OK,

builder B says “it is not code”,

AHJ has no problem with the installation.

The client makes any decisions based on all of that knowledge–you deposit your fee and pay some bills–the builders can discuss any differing opinions between themselves–and the rest of us go to the nearest watering hole and down a few.

Phil I know here many times I can find all references within the public library. Please consult with the code enforement officer and ask them the EXACT book, year and update number. If she cannot answer this then ask to speak to her superior. Just because an inspector says its right does not mean its right. I have YET to see a roof inspector walk on a roof here and any inspector go within the attic even though many items here are within the attic space.

Questioning authoirty is not wrong. This is YOUR house. I beleive in being pro active instead of reactive…Meaning, get it right BEFORE a problem occurs and not AFTER a problem occurs. Good luck, and tell the inspector to thank her uncle for getting he a job.

I could be wrong, but I think its 5/8" minimum for 24" OC for IRC.

Ohio I don’t know about

Your only definitive source is here.

7/16" 24 oc requires use of plywood clips.

So - we’re probably looking at 5/8" w/out clips and 7/16" with.

But as JB said - you have your own state codes that may be different than IRC, etc

Check the Ohio State Codes.

With or with out clips over the years the 7/16" will bow. I see it all the time in mid Missouri. I just tell the buyer that is how it is done here such as not having any weep holes in brick. Need to watch closely for delamination in attic. ](*,)

I am from Ohio and was a Licensed contractor for 10 years:) Columbus area.

Don’t mean to highjack the thread, but Jim, how do you write up the lack of weep holes? I see that all the time on my side of the state too, even new construction.

Weep holes are an absolute necessary in masonry veneer walls. Without them, any condensate in the wall will remain there and be likely to cause rot and mold. The weeps are only one part of a wall system, with rain screen, water barrier, and drainage paths. The weep is simply the last item in the path for water to egress. If a workman is careless about the weeps, it is a sign that he might have been careless about the rest of the wall system. If the rest of the work is poor, installing the weeps now might not prevent all the damage that might be expected.

Further, the only inexpensive way to place the holes would be to drill with a hammer drill. A tiny error in the depth of the drilling could cause damage to the rest of the package.

No weep holes are needed below the window sills. It is above the foundation that weeps are needed; and above window headers.

That’s kind of my point. It was built x number of years ago without weep holes. Probably didn’t have any of the supporting wall system installed either. BUT Currently does not seem to have cause any moisture problems…

What do you say? They aren’t there. They should be. The only real way to fix it, is to replace the wall. But oh by the way, it hasn’t hurt anything…

I’m just wondering what you all say.

Brick walls on block frames (common in residential construction in the 1940’s and 50’s), can and will leak. Water can easily enter a brick wall if the design, construction, materials, and/or maintenance is sub-standard.

Water commonly enters a brick wall between the mortar and the actual brick (wicking). When brick mortar is mixed with sand and water, tiny crystals begin to grow. These crystals interlock with the brick. The greater the amount of crystals, the more water resistant your brick wall will be. If the wet mortar dries too quickly, few crystals will grow. Hot weather conditions, brick which is too dry, or windy weather can cause this to happen.

However, little can be done to prevent wicking in this type of construction. The water seldom enters the structure and wicks out at the bottom in dry weather. It is not uncommon to see small water stains in the floor joists near the rim board. This moisture intrusion is generally intermittent and not harmful to the wood.

OK people I feel like I am being given the run around. I contacted the inspector who intern referred me to the building supervisor. He did not tell me what the current RCO is. He did however give me the specs are in section 803 for roof sheathing of RCO. Why couldn’t he just tell me the specs of this?
Does anyone have a link to that section? Why is this being so vague?