Asphalt shingle overhang at drip edge

Specific Inspection Topics Exterior Inspections
1

99% of the time I see it cut close to flush with the metal drip edge… but this latest one overhangs by nearly 1"… does anyone see a problem with this… both the eaves and rake were like this…

what comes to my mind is catching the wind (minimal) and effecting the actual drip effect???

any thoughts?:wink:

CPI_Savage_Sidney 040.jpg

2

Here is fla the code is not more that a 1/4 inch for windload. I think I read somwhere that it was larger up north due to the snow.

3

In Colorado they’re commonly 1 1/2 " even though we get winds over 100 MPH here on the Front Range. Only really a problem when they get so long they cause run-off to overshoot the gutter.

4

What ever amount of overhang is present, it can’t be wrong if “installed as per manufacturer’s written installation instructions”, usually located on every bundle of shingles these days, (and online). Actually identifying the shingle manufacturer can be a challenge of course, if not already known.

The point is this, in litigation work, when ever there is a complaint about the roof installation, or re-roofing installation, among what ever else might be wrong and driving the complaint, this edge detail question gets tossed into the ring also, as one more arguement why the whole roof needs to come back off and be done all over again.

Personally, I think that even with the heavier shingle weights, and being in a coastal wind zone with a 6 nail spec, I would flag any installation that exceeds one inch, at either the eave edge or the rake edge. BUT more folks get in trouble for having no overhang beyond the edge metal than having too much.
IMO

1 Like
5

Looks good Jeff, and it also helps prevent capillary action, water will drip off the shingle instead of running off the fascia.

6

agreed 100%

7

As a contractor, I do a lot of roofing. My practice, in line with the manufacturer’s advice is to overhang the shingles 1/2 to 1 inch over the eave-starter on the eave’s and to cut it flush with the eave-starter on the rakes. By installing eave-starter on the rake, most water is diverted away from the fascia. I haven’t had any calls regarding wind damage, on any roof I have done, in the past 20 years. Maybe I’m doing something right.
jmo

8

Flush on the rakes is a good idea. Here, that’s where they blow off first.

9

Thanks for the input guys… next chance I get I will be reading the packaging as well…

10

Hi all. The roofer I’m considering using insists on havingmy shingles start flush with the drip edge on the eaves for a cleaner look whenthe manufacturer’s application instructions notes to apply with a 1/2 inchoverhang on eaves with a drip edges installed. Are there possible problems that mightarise setting the shingles even with the drip edge?
Thanks.

11

Nick

  • contact the shingle mfr & ask them for a copy of their warranty & if their warranty will cover this improper installation, you want it in writing prior to work commencing
  • why would you consider hiring a contractor that won’t follow prescribed mfr instructions
  • even if they warrant the install it won’t cover the potential for latent moisture intrusion at the fascia

hth

12

Nick

  • contact the shingle mfr & ask them for a copy of their warranty & if their warranty will cover this improper installation, you want it in writing prior to work commencing
  • why would you consider hiring a contractor that won’t follow prescribed mfr instructions
  • even if they warrant the install it won’t cover the potential for latent moisture intrusion at the fascia

the only time flush edge is possibly acceptable is when t-style drip edge with built-in overhang is used & then most better installers still overhang the shingles

http://cdn3.volusion.com/yxgtw.uvvft/v/vspfiles/photos/FLASH-DRIPEDGE-2.jpg

hth

13

Back in the day I tried for 1/2 ’ to 1" overhang all around…can’t imagine why You would want it flush…