Shingles over or under flashing?

This is a skylight. Any issues here roofer guys? Does everyone agree that the shingles cover the flashing instead of the flashing covering the shingles?

061609 044.JPG 061609 042.JPG

Nice light tube and nice leak to follow.

I usually see them with the shingles covering down to the bottom of the tube and the rest over the shingles with no exposed nails. I don’t like that one at all.

Looks like an afterthought, add-on. Needs more flashing, more goop. :stuck_out_tongue:

It does look like it was added after the roof was shingled but more tar is not the answer for a long term fix,…correct installation is.

Joe,

Same type of flashing here, but these guys went with 1 additional course of shingles…
solartube1.jpg
which is still wrong.

With that type of flat edge flashing, the shingles should have overlapped 2 additional courses, until they reached the lower edge of the flashing or at least past the penetration of the roof sheathing.

This is what I like to see for square flashing…
solar_tube1.jpg

There is a better circular flashing…
solar_tube.jpg

Obivously installed and sealed in place in the winter when the material was cold.

Expansion, but nailed in place at the bottom, caused it to bow up.

I usually see this with shingls up to the tube, tube flasnhing installed over the lower shingles, and then the top half covered with shingles.

Just like metal flues and vent foot flashings.

As already said, overlapping shingles should have extended 2 more courses and the fasteners hidden beneath the lowest course.

Exposed fasteners is ok as long as the heads are caulked, same as with plumbing vent boots.

Shingles should be down to the lower edge of the round part as shown in these links

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Improve/InstallTubularSkylight.html

scroll down for picture:
http://www.solatube.com/homeowner/brightenup.php

Acceptable however not great…would I write it up…No.

My roofing crew will nail the top and middle edges of the vent boots and cover same with shingles (they also seal under the vent boot as well)…in some case we will nail the bottom as well and caulk same…usually with steeper roofs where the vent pipe is putting additional pressure on the bottom flange which requires fastening same down…hope that makes sense.

Jeff

The No-Caulk method. Old school.
http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power%20Vent%20Installation.htm

Thank you…as it should be. :slight_smile:

Roof penetrations should ONLY be installed BEFORE the roof covering is installed.

If you are adding new penetrations, they MUST be done by a professional (and in Illinois, state licensed) roofer so as to get the flashing correct.

Rule # 101, sub a): Roof dope is NOT flashing.

Hope this helps’

Roofer repaired it exactly like I thought he would.

062609 006.JPG

Joe,

You told your clients that the 10 cent upgrade was improper, right?

Thats criminal:D

Absolutely. On the re-inspection, I “failed” this repair. I should have taken a photo of the power vent. The entire flashing, 100% of it, was nailed on top of the shingles.

The roofer called me when he heard I “failed” his repair. He was real nice about it. He said he told the homeowner that most of the flashings were improper and that he couldn’t see how the county code enforcement folks ever approved it. He told the seller it would take about $500 to repair all the flashings right. She opted for the $150 repair with roof cement only. :slight_smile:

These cheaper repairs is what keeps us HI’s in business.

Here’s one from today’s inspection. New construction too:roll:

flashing.jpg

Now!!! That last pic is hilarious! In the sense, that you have to laugh because the alternative is to shoot the ‘roofer wannabe’! :frowning: