Question about wall stud size

I inspected a 50 year old ranch w/ basement. The main level walls measured at the door sills indicated a 2x3 studs were used.

Is this a common practice?

Depends whether or not it was a load bearing wall or regular dividing partion non-load bearing.

It also depends if it might have been a full 2"x3" stud that was common to see in the early 60’s.

You also have to keep in mind that in the ealy 60’s we were still buying old growth tree lumber vs. the new growth lumber we have today.

Old growth lumber of the yester years were much more dense, meaning the growth rings were a lot closer together. Today’s new growth are grown at a faster rate and weaker or softer and also have more knots due to the size of the trees.

I am sure that if that is original build, that it is probably adequate. I would just make not of it unless you saw related problems that might have been caused by the framing size.
:slight_smile:

Interior non-bearing walls are permitted under section 602.5 of the IRC to be 2"x3" spaced up too 24" o.c. If it is part of a non braced wall could 2"x4" flat studs spaced 16" o.c.

It is in my house… It was a real PITA when I decided to replace all the doors with 6 panel. I only wanted to pay the $50.00 or so a apiece you get at HD. Only those pre-hung doors are for 2x4 walls. I had to take each frame apart, cut it down on my table saw, and put them back together. It worked, and it looks nice, but not really fun…

Fun huh Mark? :mrgreen:
Anyone that has looked at 2x3’s at the lumber yard these days would leave them there. :slight_smile:

A pre-hung unit Mark is well left on saw horses and use a saw gauge on a skil saw with a fine tooth thin kerf blade and Zip it down by just going around the frame with the door facing down.
You might have to put a temporary spreader at the bottom and then replace it to the face of the frame when the frame is ripped down.
That way, you don’t have to dismantel anything. Of course this only works when the casing is not installed on it and if the frame was a split frame, it usually has casing on both sides and are pretty cheesy. It is still a pain in the arse no matter how you look at it though. :wink:

That brings back some memories of old farm house work, Marcel. :slight_smile:

Relative to the smaller studs, many were framed around here in one area of town, about that time, and are still standing.

You’re right Larry, and the house being talked about was 50 years old which brings us to those farm houses. :slight_smile:
Not something we want to do now with the grade of lumber we have.
I have kitchen cabinets in a 25 year old log cabin, I am working on that are attached to 2x4’'s on the flat. Time has caught up to them and are finally coming off the wall.
Free standing walls out of 2x3’s today although allowed by Code, will eventually distort, twist, and affect the integrity of whatever is attatched to them. Just a matter of time.
Plus as we all well know, Code is bare minimum, anything less is illegal. :mrgreen:

If you want a half decent House, you build it to Code, If you want a superb House you build it above the Code requiements.

:wink:

Yea, I hear ya.

The ones I was referring to are little 24’ x 32’ boxes…nothing fancy…they’re still okay. :slight_smile:

A couple of years ago I converted on of those into a cape with a full dormer in the rear. Actually was fun except the second floor staircase. I think I had about a 1/2’’ clearance on the landing when the front door was fully opened.

Sometimes we do have days that work with us Peter. But that is cutting it a little close for comfort. :mrgreen::wink:

Thank You so much for all your knowlege and information. I really appreciate your help.

Pat

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