The exetrior & bathroom GFCI are double protected at the main panel. The only problem I see is that the GFCI at the receptacle wont reset unless the one in the main panel is reset. Would you advise removing the double protection or would you explain to the client how to reset if they trip.
Also the dishwasher is on the kitchen GFCI circuit. Is this OK or will the dishwasher cause the GFCI to trip.
Would yoo advise a recently refurbished home to have all kitchen countertop receptacles be GFCI protected?
I would recommend that the downstream GFCI be removed from the circuit.
As for the dishwasher, it depends on how the house was originally wired up. It would be very difficult to separate the dishwasher outlet from the countertop ones at this stage. At least, make sure that the GFCI is rated for the amperage of the dishwasher.
BTW, since most kitchen outlets are suppose to be 20 amp circuits, why does everyone wire them up with 15 amp receptacles? I’ve only seen two houses with 20 amp receptacles in the kitchen.
As for the refurbished kitchen, once again it depends on how the circuit was physically wired together.
It the little dirty secrets of building a home that people don’t know about that make me smile. Everyone thinks that a newly constructed house or remodel is done per code, etc. What a big joke.
As far as kitchen outlets, the weakest link in the circuit is suppose to be the circuit breaker, not the wiring or the receptacle.
Yes but from the other side of the discusion the manufacture can say why should we make appliances that require a 20 amp plug .
They do not have the receptacles in the home for these.
Some one has to start some where
.
Roy Cooke sr.
This is permitted in the NEC.
IMHO, the need for 20 A circuits in the kitchen has more to do with multiple appliances being used at the same time.
Mfgs. don’t like to use 20A plugs because they will sell fewer units and the simple fact that people will cut the 20 A plug off and replace it with a 15A one and then use it on a 15A circuit with the resulting overload. Guess who gets sued.
If you have an appliance with a 20 plug, then it most likely needs a 20 ampere dedicated circuit. 15 ampere plugs are acceptable since the appliance is limited to 1500w by other codes. And since the load is limited the receptacle will never see more than the 1500w per yoke.
The dishwasher should have been on it’s own circuit and not part of the small appliance circuit.
The breaker and wire must be rated 20 amp.
No special plug is required.
No other device, appliance or lighting should be on the kitchen counter circuits.
Now, no one posted the age of house that I saw.
These things do not need upgrade if not required at initial construction.
I would advise the client how to reset or find the tripped device. Advise that two on one circuit is just a wast of money. One can be removed if desired.
The outlet devices that I use in kitchens are spec grade devices rated 20 amp. They are configured with a 15 amp style outlet. It’s not the plug outlet that determines the rating of the device, but the actual construction of the device itself.
