FPE?'s

There is aluminum at the panel but the breakers have the aluminum copper abbreviation. If this means they are rated for aluminum doesn’t the electrician have to install a special screw to pigtail into them? The outlets also had alum.

What is the device that is wrapped around the main aluminum wires?

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Current transformers .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Current_transformer

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In electrical engineering, a current transformer (CT) is used for measurement of electric currents. Current transformers, together with voltage transformers (VT) (potential transformers (PT)), are known as instrument transformers. When current in a circuit is too high to directly apply to measuring instruments, a current transformer produces a reduced current accurately proportional to the current in the circuit, which can be conveniently connected to measuring and recording instruments. A current transformer also isolates the measuring instruments from what may be very high voltage in the monitored circuit. Current transformers are commonly used in metering and protective relays in the electrical power industry.

I would have liked to see some Nocorode on the alum wires no pigtail required if the equipment has CO/AL on them

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Thanks Roy for the current trnformers info.

I understood that the pigtail would have to be done at the outlets even though the breakers are protected from the effects of aluminum. Am I mistaken?

It the receptacles ( plugs switches ect) are CO/AL marked no Pig tail is required .
They are ok with both copper or aluminum an anti oxidant is needed for the aluminum wire

Current transformers used to determine current usage and cost.

http://www.theenergydetective.com/about-ted

The connections of the AL to the outlets should be inspected by an electrician, regardless of the listing of the receptacle.

The problem is with the conductor. Over time, the connections become loose due to expansion and contraction of the AL conductor. This, in turn, creates a high-resistant connection which can result in fire.

In most cases, the AL should be “pig-tailed” (at the receptacle, switch or fixture) with CU. There are several connectors manufactured for this application.

If pig tailing is done it should only be done by an electrician

The Consumer Product Safety Commission does not recommended the use of pigtailing, as laboratory testing has shown that this method does not effectively mitigate the risk, and in some cases, may increase the risk of fire. The only CPSC approved methods of upgrading aluminum wired homes are the COPALUM method, which must be done using special tools and by electricians certified in its use, or by completely rewiring the home with copper.

I agree with Roy. The wire nut method shouldn’t be used. It has been found to potentially cause fires. As far as I know the older CU/AL are no longer believed to be safe and would require a Copalum pigtail. Crimping with the Cop alum is the way to go if you have non CO/ALR rated devices. The if the devices are CO/ALR I would still want an Electrician to evaluate because if there is the smallest nick in the aluminum where the insulation was striped it can cause an issue with aluminum allot faster than copper. Also the conductor should only be wrapped 2/3 to 3/4 around the screw and wire must lay flat against the plate.

Thanks for the clarification everyone. I had forgotten about the COPALUM method.

Although the CopAlum crimp is the only connector recognized by the CPSC, there are other connectors available that serve the same purpose and create a “permanent” connection. I am not referring to “wire-nuts,” even though some may be specifically listed for this purpose.

The suggestion by the CPSC that the only other remedy is to re-wire the home is ludicrous (IMHO).

Federal Pacific Stab-Lok Panel

  • Recommend Review / Replacement by Licensed Electrical Contractor…

At least there is one copper on the bus
be it a neutral…
:slight_smile:

http://www.alcopstore.com/

For instance…

alumCopperConnector.jpg

These pigtails are only approved until a later date when thay are no longer approved…
Problem is the wire
not the splice…