What is your normal procedure for inspecting a HVAC system and is there anything you do that you find useful that exceeds the SOP?
You have asked a loaded question here and not receiving any help. What can I do to help you. I can tell you up front what I do would exceed most everyones SOP’S
There is a great thread about this somewhere. I will try to find it
I thought it might be a loaded question though I was hoping to avoid infighting. I thought it might be interesting to see what different HI’s do and how and why they do it. Just thought it would be a good learning experience for a lot of people.
http://www.nachi.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8936&highlight=method
This should give a plenty to read up on
Turn it on.
Look at it.
Does it get hot?
Does it get cold?
Next…
I exceed the SOP because I get my Clients, the sellers (if present), both Realtors, and anyone else who is at the inspection involved in this specific aspect:
1 - Check that furnace is plugged in, gas is hooked up, and gas is turned on.
2 - Use thermostat to turn furnace on.
3 - Let furnace run for at least 10 minutes to check for short-cycling.
4 - Let furnace run until (a) sellers complain about next month’s utility bill or (b) people start complaining about how hot it is.
5 - Turn furnace off.
6 - Check that cooling system is hooked up.
2 - Use thermostat to turn the cooling system on.
3 - Let cooling system run for at least 10 minutes to check for short-cycling.
4 - Let cooling system run until (a) sellers complain about next month’s utility bill or (b) people start complaining about how cold it is.
5 - Turn cooling system off.
Always “heat 'em up” and then “cool 'em down.” One doesn’t want them all “hot and mad” at oneself at the end of the inspection, which would happen if you cooled 'em down and then heated 'em up.
This system is very good for preventing callbacks when the season changes:
Client six months after the March inspection - “My furnace doesn’t work!”
Me: “It worked when I was there because everyone was complaining about how hot it was and asking when I was going to turn the heater off.”
CSMATMI - “Oh, yeah.”
Me: “Have you called the heating technician yet?”
CSMATMI - “Not yet. I guess I’ll do that right now. Thanks, Russel.”
End of story.
So when the heat pump runs for ten minutes in the winter and temperture goes up three degrees F what exactly does your client say RR?
Burrr I’m cold 
I have no idea. I’ve only had one Client call me because I’ve been using my system since Day One. The Client who called had done a rent-back with the sellers–for six months! Well, duh!
The only way to avoid infighting on this board is never post anything don’t ask any questions. But what fun would that be. I don’t think I have ever posted a complete list of things that I check might be a good time to do that. Have not had a good argument since the hogs ate my brother.
I will make up my list time permitting in word and copy and paste back here get ready to toe the mark–))
I like this post because it brings up something I struggle with when I am doing an inspection. TIME. Every Inspector I talk to seems to be able to complete a home inspection in about half the time it takes me.
I inspected a house in Pine AZ on Friday. This house had an Amana 5 ton A/C with electric strip heat. The unit had the wrong size filter and dirty coils. It was 35 degrees outside so I could only test the heat.
To run the unit, test for heat at each register, open maintenance panels, look at the air handler and put the thing back together took about 45 minutes.
I know everyone is going to say they could do it in less time but my point is that it does take time to do it right.
My opinion is that every house is a minimum 3 hour inspection no matter how small.
I will have something in my list just for you.
Don’t worry about the time; it takes what ever amount of time it takes.
I did a old two story on friday about 2500 sq feet raised floor started about 9:30 AM finished about 2:30 PM:shock: lots of talking clients present.
I’m with Charley on this. Quit worrying about the time factor, develop a routine that works for you, use it whenever possible (because sometimes it won’t be). I think many HI are over thinking the procedures. Ive said this before; I believe the reason so many inspectors take so long is because they are unsure of themselves and lack some of the necessary training to move through the inspection with confidence so they end up taking much longer than necessary, by being so paranoid and meticulous. Often I see where they fret over “why” a system isn’t working. That is not your concern. If it isn’t working using normal operating controls then it just isn’t working. Our job is NOT to troubleshoot the equipment, but to report it, and move on. Electrical and HVAC appears to be the two weakest areas that HI get stuck on. Some concerns should be addressed as both of these areas can be very costly to make a mistake in. I see a lot of confusion regarding the differences between Heat pumps and Air conditioners as well. Some very bogus information has been put out by the HI courses and schools in this area. I recommend finding a licensed HVAC tech in your area (someone you can trust), take them to lunch and have a good sit down bull session with them about how you should be conducting your inspection. There should be no shame in admitting you do not know how to do something, but I believe many HI try to BS their way through things and do not want to appear to not know something. If I do not know something, I just tell the customer “I do not know!” I will often try to find out but you can waste a lot of time chasing rabbits for things that are really not your problem. Report what you see and leave the troubleshooting to the Pros.
I tell my Clients that “It takes about 1 hour for every 1,000 square feet in order to do a good, thorough job.” Always end with “good, thorough job” and you’ve got their attention.
In actuality, it takes about 45 minutes for every 1,000 square feet for a condo, or anything slab-on-grade, or brand new never-been-lived in construction. It takes about 1½ hours for raised foundations and anything older than about 25 years.
Exceptions are when the Clients bring their gazillionbazillion relatives and friends, or when the Clients came with their own list of a gazillionbazillion questions to ask. But those situations are rare.
That’s exactly what my wise old grandmother said, so I just quoted your post, Doug! It needed repeating, with emphasis on some select phrases and sentences.
One of the great selling points that everyone with InterNACHI should be using is this one:
“I’ll be the first to tell you that I don’t know everything there is to know about real estate. So if I find something that I don’t know, I can take a picture and post it and a question at the Message Board for the International Association of Certified Home Inspections. With almost 10,000 members, I can have an answer for you within hours, many times within minutes.”
My Clients appreciate that, and it is true.
It’s a good selling point when someone calls you up and asks you if you’re a member of ASHI, NAHI, CREIA, or whatever. None of them have the active Message Board that we have at InterNACHI, and none of them have the membership we do. This is powerful, Folks! Use it to your advantage. Marketing!
I agree with Doug and Charlie’s post. i think an inspection takes as long as it takes. I have, on occasion, told the client to come at a certain time only to have them wait around for over an hour while I finish. Too meticulous or not skilled in HVAC or electrical systems is not the problem. It is always how many things you find on the inspection.
A dirty or incorrect filter means a closer look at the coil. A panel that has sloppy wiring methods requires longer to inspect than one done by a competent electrician etc.
Many of the newer homes in Arizona have gas heat with two air handlers in the attic and electric a/c with 2 condensers on the back yard. How long do you think it should take to inspect both units per the SOP???
I tell my Clients to come at the beginning of the inspection. I want them to see how hard I work for them, and the interaction over 2-3 hours helps establish that all-important rapport that is important in convincing them that they can call me at any time for any reason. I’m working for them at the inspection and 24/7 afterwards, as long as they are alive.
15 minutes for each, so 1 hour total. However, one can do a lot of things concurrently while the units are running.
You make a great point Russel. Next time I will encourage them to come as early as they like and see how hard I am working for them.
The original post at the start of this thread was for a procedure when evaluating HVAC. While I am testing a unit there isn’t anything else I can do. By the time I set up my ladder, start the furnace, enter the attic and remove access panels, check the burners and heat exchanger, check evaporator drains and tattle tails, look at the condensate pan for rust etc, record the btu rating of the furnace, come back down and inspect air flow at each register, go back to the attic and re-assemble the unit, swap the t-stat to cooling mode. Now I have a bit of time while the unit is starting up and beginning to cool the house to gather all the info from the condensers. Next it is back inside to check air flow at each register and the split. If everything works right by the time I enter everything into the computer I have used 1 hour of inspection time.
I’m sure there is a better way but going through each step is the only way I feel I have inspected the two units.
I am going to break mine down into installments here is the first part.
Ok guys here goes, what I do as an HI. I am not going to try to make a HVAC tech out of you, but I do believe as an HI you should have some knowledge of what you are looking at, be able to identify components of a furnace and a A/C unit. I would highly recommend you go online to a Heating & Air Supply house and just go through their parts or get a catalog and study it.
Gas fired furnace up-flow or down flow with standing pilot light or igniter visual inspection includes removing the front excess panels. I do this before operating from the thermostat I look for burnt wires either from flames or electrical. Check the blower wheel for lint as this determines how often the filters have been maintained and the possibility of the A-coil being blocked with lint. Check for rust in the bottom of the burner chambers. View as much of the heat exchanger with a mirror as is possible. I do not have a scope but intend to add this in the future. Check for burnt areas on the exterior of the burner chamber for possible flame rollout.
This is when I operate from the thermostat then returning to the front of the furnace and check the color of the flame should be a nice blue with perhaps a small amount of orange at the very tip being acceptable. I step over the SOP at this point by removing one of the 24 volt wires on the top of the gas valve thus deactivating the gas control valve it should go closed and the flames extinguished. I do this to watch the ignition process when I replace the wire on the gas valve as it was not visible when I turned the unit on at the thermostat. Check for flame roll out or slow ignition.
I check at this point where the condensate from the A/C coil is discharging to and for any air loss around the supply plenum. Paying close attention for any opening in the return duct connections at the furnace do not want any non-conditioned air entering the system at this point depending on the location of the furnace.
[RIGHT]I use a CO meter to test for carbon monoxide at the closet register from the furnace. Been lots of conversation/discussions on this item but I still perform my CO test. Found numerous cracked heat exchangers in my tenure. Had one recently that tested no CO but due to the physical appearance and age I suspected that the [/RIGHT]
Exchanger had problems and called for it to be checked and I was right it had a crack that the meter did not pick up. It’s called using your eyes and a gut feeling. I would much rather error on the side of caution than have someone die from CO.
Duct work is simple check for air loss and or lack of insulation in non-conditioned spaces. If a downflow furnace with a crawl space the plenum should not be resting on the ground as it will rust out. When performing this check I place the Thermostat in the ON position does two things insures the Stat works in the on position and allows me to find air leaks faster if the duct is installed in the crawl or the attic for that matter. Ducts in slab on grade foundations should be checked for free standing water or past watermarks from the register end. I do this as I inspect individual rooms. Ducts within a crawl space are checked for at least 6 inches of clearance to ground and must not be blocking excess to plumbing and should be properly attached to the floor joist. I personally do not like Flex duct in a crawl space but local AHJ allows it. SO be
Second installment
Ah electrical furnaces I do not just operate from the Stat I am a confirmed believer if you are not checking the amp draw on each individual element you are not performing for your client and believe this should be added to every SOP. For the naysayers concerning this check I am of the opinion if you can not perform an Amp check without getting electrocuted Perhaps you should find another profession.
Open the front cover of the furnace and check for loose/burnt wires ensuring that no one has removed or wired around the fusible links. Check for proper breaker and wire size to the furnace. When activated from the thermostat the blower should come on first then the elements will sequence on depending on the size of the sequencer. If 5 elements are installed you might see the first three elements come on and the 4th and 5th can be on the second stage of the thermostat thus would require setting the Stat on a high setting. This can and will vary between MFG
The A-coil, the blower and the duct work I treat the same as a gas furnace.