This was sent to me by my Canadian Friend and is worth the time for all to view.
It is well put together and explains the point very well.
Bloody nice Marcel.
A Canadian you say.
Gees Louis those guys up there are great thinks.
Yes, his Name is Roy Cooke, I believe some know of him.
;)
You are a funny guy! LOL
Marcel if it wasn’t him I was going to eat my shorts.
The reason I did not say thanks Roy is because I understand why he is off the M.B. and wanted to remain confidential.
The minute he gets back on the MB I am going to spank the beeejesus out of that little youngster for keeping all the best HI secrets to himself.
Roy come and get your punishment…
I told you before young man.
Share with the other homies.
And there I thought he retired…
I knew there was something about you…, but never expected this…:shock:
I knew there was something about you Roybert but never expected this…:shock:
What’s funny Marcel is when he is not here to defend himself “your mouth runs over” but you are cut to the quick with a man that can out manoeuvres you and fact as his staff.
Its OK I forgive you for not knowing and listening to … Well I will not say what I have witness and know for fact as you keep on defending the??? questionable.
If that’s the best you can do?.
I take that facts each and every time.
Poking me. HA HA HA.
I do poke back…
I will make it good.:mrgreen:
Nice article, thanks!!
All due respect EH but i disagree with alot of the SUPPOSED SOLUTIONS.
Example…
where it says, Diagnosing and solving flood problems/Water entering at the basement walls and concrete floor…he says SOLUTION(s) are…
- downspouts are too short…
- a friggin rain barrel…
- add soil/low spots
Here’s just a few examples of where water is ONLY SEEN entering at-along the bottom of wall and floor,
http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing23#
http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing46#
http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing37#
http://picasaweb.google.com/101049034584960315932/BasementWaterproofing69#
just about every homeowner i’ve done work for HAS ALREADY TRRRRIED farting around with those SUPPOSED SOLUTIONS, they don’t work because you have ACTUALLY DIAGNOSE the real frigging problem(s) in order to FIX those real dang problem(s)…raising the grade, adding soil to LOW SPOTS or extending the STOOOOOOOOPID downspouts to the PACIFIC fcg OCEAN does NOT fix/repair a crack, does not repair/tuckpoint open mortar joints above ground, does not snake a possible clog in laetal line and sooooo on! Sheesh K :mrgreen:
How the HLLL is it that every g damn house/basement that my dumb azz has been in that leaks/floods is/was DUE TO 1 or more cracks in basement wall(s), rod holes, openings ABOVE grade (bsmt windows,open mortar joints etc etc) or a possinle blockage in laetral line(need to snake the biaaatch,a few times replace part or all on line) and a less laikely but possible problem w/an existing sump pump).
If the problem are cracks in the dumb azz wall(s) then they need WATERPROOFING in those areas…NOT playing w/the stooopid grade/low spots etc…if the problem are rod holes then seal the fcg rod holes NOT play w/the grade,NOT install a sump pump!
If the problem is only a blockage in lateral line then snake the mfr! A few may need to replace part or all of line.
http://www.jsonline.com/news/milwaukee/48646722.html .scroll down to,
TOO MUCH TOO QUICK
…‘the massive amount of water seeped through cracks in the sewer laterals and main pipes, THEN flowed back into homes…any BLOCKAGE in the LATERALS compounded the problem…Kappel pegged CLOGGED LATERALS as the CAUSE of MUCH of the basement flooding’
If the problem/where the dman water FIRST enters and evntually floods the g damn basement is open mortar joints/cracked brcisk then TUCKPOINT that shttt, NOT play w/grade,NOT install a sump pump.
And when the frigging actual problem are openings around,above,under basement windows/doors then THATS what needs to be sealed correctly, NOT toying with the dumb azz/extensions or sump! Come fkg on.
Where does that article state shtt about w t f i’m saying?
PRETENTIOUS BULLSHTTT by many on THIS subject is all it is, g damn right baby.
Other than that i’ll bet this HI/others are quite good on OTHER shtt
Achmed the dead terrorist…silence, i KLLL you!
To be far John B.I know you are a long time member.
Mr. Cooke gave a link.
It is for individuals to use as illustrations and to get an idea of sub drainage.
Not to fix them.
Now I see concrete driveways, short or no downspout extensions and old sub drainage problems.
All the right environment for water penetration.
The technique I see in the photos are less than acquitter for longevity.
JMO
I use machinery to move earth and men’s brains to fix the issue.
The terracotta 24" system is ineffective at best after 25 years and little to no maintenance…
I do lot water management, sub drainage and foundation crack repair using zippier seam repair method.
crack are cut out 7 to 8" wide.
6 inches deep.
I form a dove tail as in carpentry.
Holes are drilled 6 to 8 " deep every 12" opposing each other horizontally.
re-bar is cut 12 to 18" long.
The re-bar is installed every hole pre drilled 12: laterally opposing each piece.
Each piece of re-bar is set in place with epoxy.
THE FORM: The form extends out horizontally 24" inches on centre of the repair (CRACK) and 2’ TO/OR 3.5" inch proud of the foundation.
Plywood is used to make the form.
The form is form oiled then braced then filled with air entrained minimum 3.500 PSI cement.
I use a vibrator to extract bubbles.
When cured the new concrete is wrapped with Blue Skin.The French drainage line is cut at the crack. Each and every one if there are more repairs.The are replaced with new 4" perforated subdrainage with mesh.
During the process.
My 3,600 PSI pressure washer and 60’ of line slowly evacuate blockages and silt.
As you know there is always a silt bed that forms at the bottom of the conduit.
After water left on to clean out the drainage system for as long as I am on site.
BACK FILL.
“All the loam” is covered with geo fabric. It separates the materials that will integrate over time.
THE VOID IS COVERED ON ALL 3 SIDES.
The last 4 inches are left for the home owner to decide what to do.
I cover the aggregate with goe 2 times, that is the third side being covered and closes off the aggregate for the soil…
They can place back fill, soil, pea stone,r fibre mulch after that.
All the best.
I never use repairs unless they have a foundation of education behind them.