A small development in Massachusetts shows that even builders in a state with one of the most advanced energy codes in the nation are still stuck in yesterday’s framing systems—the ‘we’ve always done it this way’ system.
If you are a builder and you see this on one of your job sites, it should look like your money going out the window. A missed savings opportunity. If you picked this framing sub because the price was 25% lower than the guy who knows what advanced framing is, then you broke even financially and your customers got short-changed.
I would still go 16" oc for 2x6 studs. I remember seeing a new wood frame house at 24" oc with plywood sheathing installed vertically (mistake), and wire lath stucco. It bowed so bad in between the studs that the stucco (cracking) and sheathing had to be removed and studs added. Ended up being 12" oc…what a mess, but luckily the condition presented itself before the drywall was installed.
The mistake they all make is they increase the stud spacing to 24" o.c. and still use the 1/2" drywall.
24" spacing needs 5/8" drywall minimum to get an acceptable finish with a controled humidity during installation and finishing of the walls.
But that might be to much to ask in the high development areas.
Most 1/2’ drywall down here is high strength now, which is even ok on a 24" oc ceiling. Even 20 years ago, 1/2" standard drywall was used on interior partitions at 24" oc without issues…mostly on metal studs for build-outs.
I would say that if it is good enough for a ceiling at 24" oc, then is must be ok for the walls. I have worked with it and can say that it is very different. It contains glass like fibers in it, similar to fibered concrete that does not require wire mesh reinforcement.
[FONT=Universal-NewswithCommPi][size=1] [/size][/FONT][FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]Costs less than 5/8" wallboard.
[/size][/FONT][FONT=Universal-NewswithCommPi][size=1] [/size][/FONT][FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]Weighs significantly less than
5/8" wallboard.
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This is what could make or break the installation using this product.
[FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]Apply insulation and polyethylene
vapor barrier (if used)
before installing ceiling board.
[/size][/FONT][FONT=Universal-NewswithCommPi][size=1][/size][/FONT][FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]Insulation not to exceed
2.2 lbs./sq. ft. (10.7 kg/m[/size][/FONT][FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=1]2[/size][/FONT][FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]).[/size][/FONT]
[FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]
[/size][/FONT][FONT=Universal-NewswithCommPi][size=1][/size][/FONT][FONT=Frutiger-LightCn][size=2]Adequate ventilation required.
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High Strength LITE is a specialty gypsum board formulated to be 25 percent lighter than original 1/2" high strength gypsum board. It is lightweight, sag-resistant and easy to handle, and can be used for walls and ceilings, eliminating the need for two different types of gypsum board on the job.
This is a new product that has recently came out to lighten the board and still provide the durability. It has nothing to do with making it any stronger than the original stuff.
I can however say it is lighter. I helped a friend with an addition back in the spring and hanging it sure was a treat. Well not really, hanging drywall is never a treat.
Kind of like saying the new cars are high strength compared to the ones built in the 50’s
Haven’t come across either one, but I have been out of the building sector now for 3 years.
Don’t know how they perform at 2’ on center framing for ceilings.
