Parameters:
Used: FLIR e60
Temp inside: ~72-74
Humidity inslide: 39%
Temp outside: low 50s
Dew point was in the mid 40s.
We have water leaking on the upper right edge of the 2nd window from the right, now likely falling into the wall between the right most and 2nd from right window.
Question is: what is the source? There are cracked trim boards above the window, failing caulking above the window, or we also had roofing work on the right side where snow had previously formed an ICE dam…they claimed to put 3’ of membrane over there – the color is where I’d expect the edge of the membrane to be…and it shows on the other side of the wall, 3’ up as well…(last image – other size of roof “V”)
As you can tell, looks like the previous homeowner had taken out some of the drywall.
Oddly, on the other side of the window (where there was no ice dam), it shows the same thing –
Really need to get a Moisture meter…I actually own a Delmhorst J-Lite (used primarily for wood working), but it doesn’t have a drywall adjustement…http://www.delmhorst.com/products_wood.html
Given that I see the problem here as well, it makes me think it is NOT a roof leak?
To follow-up on the first set of images, water is dripping a story below into another set of windows (following a major wind-driven rain storm, I might add)
Bottom floor area below leaking windows shown in first picture. Question is: is the leak coming down from the top floor or is there another window leak here?
If it is a cathedral ceiling it needs an air channel above the insulation. If no channel is found it may be from condensation and trapped moisture.
[FONT=Garamond-Light][size=2]For instance, cathedral ceilings were constructed[/size][/FONT]
[size=2][FONT=Garamond-Light]with 2 x 8 rafters for many years which meant that[/FONT][/size]
[size=2][FONT=Garamond-Light]only R-19 batts could be installed. When codes[/FONT][/size]
[size=2][FONT=Garamond-Light]upgraded to R-30, even 2 x 10 rafters would not offer[/FONT][/size]
[size=2][FONT=Garamond-Light]enough space for standard 10" thick R-30 batts. Now
insulation manufacturers are offering 8
[/FONT][/size][FONT=Garamond-Light][size=1]1[/size][/FONT][FONT=Garamond-Light][size=2]⁄[/size][/FONT][FONT=Garamond-Light][size=1]4[/size][/FONT][FONT=Garamond-Light][size=2]" R-30 high density [/size][/FONT][size=2][FONT=Garamond-Light]batts which offer higher thermal performance[/FONT][/size]
[size=2][FONT=Garamond-Light]inch-for-inch than standard fiber glass batts with the added benefit of allowing space for ventilation and eliminating the need to increase the rafter size or add roof baffles.
Interesting info on the insulation Kwood. Insulation was blown in and I think there is at least some gap between the top of the insulation and the roof in most places, but it may not be enough.
Charley- my wood moister meter showed elevated readings of 7-8% (from typ 6%) in some areas of the drywall…Put a lot of pinholes – need an non-invasive version. Not sure how to adjust for drywall vs. wood…Not sure if this is high enough to be something to worry about or just condensation…
You won’t get much condensation with that indoor humidity. Your bottom windows look like typical air infiltration. The ceiling appears to be wet but not saturated. Deteriorated caulking and damaged/cracked trim along with some wind driven rain might be the problem. Does it get wetter with wind driven rains at that elevation of the home?
I will bow out and let the “expert” John McKenna answer that one for you.
I’m only a lowly Level III Thermographer and should not be doing Home Inspections any more…
It’s all well and good to help out the other guy, but “Dude” you need some training to go with your camera…
We can’t scratch the surface of what is going on here.
You don’t have the equipment or the training, never mind being in parts unknown.
As it has ice dam issues, you could be north of me. That’s about I can tell you at this point.
We can guess till the cows come home, but it won’t do you any good. This is not point and shoot digital photography.
My best recommendation is to advise your client that there is a problem there and they need an expert to locate the problem or just get the saws-all out and go for it.
Seeing it is just sheetrock and the house is new(er), the latter will be the most cost effective. They have to rip it all out to make the repair anyway.
As there is a cold spot, that means there is an opening. If there is an opening, water can get in.
Water/Air it doesn’t matter. It needs to be fixed or they will be talking down the wall in the near future.
Peter Russel does these all the time. Give him a call.
Rip it out now, or a lot more later…
Lets see what would Mike Holmes do? New windows, new roof shingles, new drywall mold proof of course, spray foam the ceiling and dont forget all new gutters and flashing.
OK Peter Russel are you good to go. LOL
Using the FLIR S/W, it is clear that the lowest reading is above he dew point on the ceiling.
Also, using a Wagner moisture meter, readings are in the 3%-5% range.
Given all data, I do not think it is a leak.
This area is a source of a previous ice dam, but that was repaired thoroughly…
Speakers were also installed in the area, with no insulation above, given that it fell out when the speakers were installed from below (no access to the area from above – cathedral).
